Key things for a good contact frame:
1) FLAT BACK. The back board must be flat or it won't press evenly on the glass.
2) RIGID BACK. The back shouldn't flex when clamped up. If it does, the clamp bars may crack the glass.
3) SOFT SURFACE Almost every one I've seen has a felt or baize surface to absorb minor imperfections and avoid creasing papers. Some of the 1960s-80s ones use foam rubber. If making contact prints of thick objects eg. plants this might be a good idea.
4) HEAVY FRAME - for the same reasons as 2) This includes the glass. Thin 2mm picture frame glass is unlikely to take the pressure except on very small frames.
5) SPLIT BACK - to enable opening the back to check exposure without losing register. Traditionally split 1/3 of the way across.
Here's the video: apologies for the poor sound quality - I'm still learning this stuff!
https://youtu.be/NuD_OQoaDlk
https://youtu.be/NuD_OQoaDlk |
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